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Offline AndyC_772

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Admin Edit:  Looks like the images in this post are now dead, hence spaces

Dropping a Z1000SX looks like it could be an expensive business, so I decided to do a little preventive maintenance and fit a complete set of R&G crash bungs.

(Disclaimer: no responsibility *at all* is accepted for the accuracy or otherwise of this account, which reflects only what the owner chose to do to his own bike. Refer to Kawasaki and/or your accessory supplier for correct fitting instructions. You are entirely responsible for any work which you choose to carry out on your bike.)

Here's the patient:



...and the new kit...



Starting off with the bar end sliders:

These replace the original bar end weights. Getting these off is easy, they're just held on with a single screw, though it can be quite tight and a T-bar driver or ratchet handle makes undoing it easier.



If (like me) you have heated grips, which are a fraction longer than the standard items, then you might need to pack out the bar ends with washers. The same three washers fit both the old bar end weights and the new:



The new bar end is held on with an allen bolt (supplied).



Next came the paddock stand bobbins:



A couple of chamfered nuts attach the mounting plate to the eccentric chain adjuster:





The bobbins attach to the mounting plate with a single bolt each side:



Front fork protectors:



The bike isn't quite symmetrical, so neither are the fork protectors - note the different sizes for left and right. The threaded rod isn't quite symmetrical either.



The insert with the larger collar fits the RH side of the bike with the hex nut:



Just thread the pieces onto the rod and do up the nyloc nuts both ends:



That's the easy items out of the way. Now the scary part, taking the fairings off to install the big side crash bungs...

First, decide where you're going to put the fairing before you take it off the bike. It's bulky and easily damaged, so you won't want to just drop it on the garage floor. Remember that this is the part that you're trying to protect by fitting this stuff, so don't scratch it now!

Undo the four bolts that retain the dash surround, and remove it. One of these bolts on each side also attaches to the fairing.



There are two plastic fasteners at the tip of the belly pan; a flat bladed screwdriver releases these:



Three more fasteners at the front of the bike just under the headlamp, two near the front and one further back. These are easy to detach when you know how: push in the central pin with a suitable tool like a small allen key, and they'll release with a click and pop straight out.



To detach the LH fairing, there are three further bolts to remove, making a total of four including the one at the dash:



The fairing is now retained by a few friction pins, which pop out fairly easily, and a few clips at the top edge:



These are fragile and easily broken. Keeping a close eye on them, slide the fairing towards the back of the bike to release it. As it comes free, disconnect the indicator. And you're done!



The kit looks quite expensive until you see what you're getting: a couple of very nicely made lumps of solid aluminium, custom made to fit the bike:



Two big, chunky bolts secure the larger of the two to the LH side of the bike:



Correct engine and clutch case covers weren't available at the time of writing, but these are also most easily installed with the fairing removed. (Watch this space!)

That's all that needs doing with the fairing off, so now it can be refitted. Start by connecting the indicator, then slide the top edge of the fairing back into the clips. As you slide it into place, check the very front edge of the fairing just under the headlamp, and make sure this fits correctly too - there's an extra clip here too.

Tuck the indicator wiring out of the way, then re-locate the fairing on its friction pins. Replace the three bolts, and the three plastic pop fasteners under the headlamp. These can be 're-set' by pushing the central pin up so that it sits proud of the head of the fastener, then locked into place by pressing the pin back to its original position. (Examine one when you get it out - it's pretty obvious how they work, once you have one in your hand!)

With the fairing re-fitted, all that remains is to install the crash bung itself, which is a single allen bolt with a couple of washers...



...and a decorative cap to finish it off:



The RH side is slightly different. The fairing is a different shape and has just two extra bolts retaining it rather than three, but it also clips into this exhaust cover which needs to be removed:



One bolt secures it, though it also clips into the lower edge of the fairing in two places. Other than this, the pop fasteners and plastic clips are the same. So off it comes:



With a gentle stretch of the clutch cable, the mounting block goes on in the same way as the other side:



The fairing can now be re-fitted. Remember to reconnect the indicator and to tuck its wiring out of the way, to check the fit of the front edge (under the headlamps), and to reattach the exhaust cover. Do double check that the exhaust cover is properly secured, it's close to the ground and you don't want it coming loose!



With both fairings in place you can now also re-fit the two belly pan clips, and replace the dash surround.

Attaching the final crash bung is the same as the LH side - and you're done!




Offline lew600fazer

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Re: Complete guide to fitting R&G bungs
« Reply #1 on: May 03, 2011, 11:57:45 PM »
Excellent Post Andy, looking at the Paddock stand bobbins what kind of stand are you using,
Lew
FZ6 S1,CBF1000GT,Z1000SX,FZ6 S2,FZ1, MT-09, MT09 Tracer

Offline Mort

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Re: Complete guide to fitting R&G bungs
« Reply #2 on: May 04, 2011, 10:53:47 AM »
Excellent post  - great photos!

Thanks for posting.

Will be interested to see the engine case covers when they're on.

Are the bar ends the same weight as the originals?

Offline catfishsteve

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Re: Complete guide to fitting R&G bungs
« Reply #3 on: May 04, 2011, 11:00:21 AM »
Nice post  :062:
Cheers,
             Steve

Offline Martin B

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Re: Complete guide to fitting R&G bungs
« Reply #4 on: May 04, 2011, 12:11:39 PM »
Great Job Andy

Many thanks

Martin B,
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Offline Chester

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Re: Complete guide to fitting R&G bungs
« Reply #5 on: May 04, 2011, 12:16:59 PM »
R&G swingarm sliders/paddock stand bobbins, and fork protectors are on order.  Look alright too.  Thanks for the post Andy, good getting confirmation that I've made the right choice.  :028:
Chester

Offline AndyC_772

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Re: Complete guide to fitting R&G bungs
« Reply #6 on: May 04, 2011, 12:45:06 PM »
*Originally Posted by lew600fazer [+]

Excellent Post Andy, looking at the Paddock stand bobbins what kind of stand are you using,
Lew

I have a 'universal' paddock stand with rubber coated cups that sit under the swingarm on each side. It doesn't use the bobbins at all - in fact they make the bike too wide and have to be removed to make the stand fit!

It's rather old and I've no idea what make it is, I'm afraid - but I wouldn't specifically recommend it anyway.

Offline AndyC_772

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Re: Complete guide to fitting R&G bungs
« Reply #7 on: May 04, 2011, 12:49:07 PM »
*Originally Posted by Mort [+]

Are the bar ends the same weight as the originals?

They're a bit lighter. The original weights (inc bolts) are 304g each, and the R&G replacements are 215g. I can't say I've noticed any problem.

Offline Fast Black

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Re: Complete guide to fitting R&G bungs
« Reply #8 on: May 04, 2011, 01:06:24 PM »
Excellent job Andy, well explained, just fit mine on last week....very nervously as I read on the forum the fairing clips were very fragile, should have waited a week....lol.  :028:
Phil
Remember to keep it rubber side down & shiny side up.........stay safe.

Offline Blow

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Re: Complete guide to fitting R&G bungs
« Reply #9 on: May 06, 2011, 02:35:19 PM »
Good post Andy, one question: what torque are the bolts done up to, I presume this is mentioned in the instructions?
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